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Food

THE BOATHOUSE,

1 American Express Way, Providence, 272-1040.

It's okay to let the peacoated midshipman park your car. At first glance, my boyfriend Andre mistook him for an enlisted man, but the valet was merely honoring the nautical motif here. Indeed, in the casual Captain's Quarters where we sat, the rest of the crew was waiting. For an appetizer, we stuck with the seafood theme and ordered fried calamari ($7.50). Lightly breaded, the squid had been cooked to a perfect firmness, and the peppers in the accompanying hot-pepper sauce didn't have us breathing fire. Not shy about pampering himself, Andre ordered the baked-stuffed shrimp ($16.95) for his main course. They were stuffed with a delightful mix of crab, scallops, and shrimp. I happily munched on my grilled chicken sandwich on the other side of the table, and for dessert, we both went the sundae route -- the "Banana Boat Split" for Andre and the "Brownie Raft Sundae" for me. Nothing like dropping anchor at the Boathouse for one of the best meals in town.

Full review.








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